You bought a Swiss cheese vine for the holes, and yours is producing leaves as solid as a dinner plate. Rude. The good news is that a hole-free Adansonii is almost never a sick plant. It’s usually a plant waiting on one of four things: age, light, support, or a bit of steady care. Let’s figure out which one is holding yours back.
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First, what are those holes for?
Botanists call the holes and slits “fenestration,” and the most popular theory is that they let flecks of light filter down to lower leaves as the plant climbs trees in dense tropical forest. The exact evolutionary reason is still debated, so treat that as the leading explanation rather than settled fact.
What matters for you: fenestration is a maturity feature. The plant makes it when it has the energy, size, and (usually) the climbing habit to justify it.
A quick reality check on Adansonii
Adansonii has a reputation for fenestrating earlier than its big cousin Monstera deliciosa. At least one plant retailer notes it can show holes from early in life. Other growers say young plants still need time before the holes get impressive. My read is that sources disagree on exactly when, and it likely varies by plant. If yours is a small nursery-pot baby, don’t panic yet.
The five usual suspects
1. It’s still young. Fenestration tends to show up as the plant matures. Small starter plants and fresh cuttings generally take longer to produce their showiest leaves, and timelines from growers range from a few months to a year or more. There’s no way to rush it, only to avoid slowing it down.
2. It was recently propagated. A new cutting spends its early weeks building roots, not fancy foliage. Extension horticulturists cited by one grow-light company say a fresh cutting can take two to three months just to push its first new leaf, and early leaves are often smaller and less split. I couldn’t independently verify that specific timeframe, so treat it as a rough guide.
3. It isn’t getting enough light. This is the most common fixable cause in an otherwise mature plant. Low to medium light keeps a Monstera alive, but growers consistently report slower growth and fewer fenestrations there. Aim for bright, indirect light, like a spot near a window with a sheer curtain. Harsh direct sun can scorch the leaves, so bright doesn’t mean blazing. If your room is dim, a grow light is a legitimate fix. Our guide on choosing grow lights for terrarium and houseplants covers how to place one without cooking your leaves.
4. It has nothing to climb. In the wild, Monstera seedlings crawl toward dark forest floor shapes, basically hunting for a tree trunk, and leaf size jumps once they start climbing. A vine left to sprawl or trail usually stays smaller and less split than one trained up a moss pole or trellis. This is a big deal for Adansonii, a natural climber.
5. Care is inconsistent. Fenestrated leaves cost the plant more energy. Overwatering can stress the roots and stunt leaf development, while a missing feed during the growing season leaves the plant without fuel. See our rundown of common houseplant watering mistakes if you suspect this one.
The fix, step by step
- Move it brighter. Bright, indirect light, ideally within a couple of feet of a window, or under a grow light.
- Give it something to climb. A moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. Gently tie the vine on and let it attach.
- Water on a rhythm. Let the top few centimeters of soil dry, then water thoroughly, and never leave the pot sitting in water.
- Feed in the growing season. A balanced fertilizer in spring and summer, and ease off in fall and winter.
- Keep humidity and warmth reasonable. Typical home conditions are fine. Just avoid cold drafts and dry blasts from heaters.
- Wait. Once conditions are right, expect new leaves to improve gradually. Every new leaf is usually a little bigger and more split than the last.
Quick diagnostic checklist
- Small plant or fresh cutting? → Probably just age, keep the care consistent and wait
- Mature plant, small solid leaves? → Check light first
- Vine sprawling with no support? → Add a moss pole or trellis
- Soggy soil or yellowing lower leaves? → Fix watering before anything else
- Leaves bleached or crispy? → Too much direct sun, pull it back
One honest caveat
Some plants simply fenestrate slower than others, and I can’t tell you your plant’s exact timeline. If you’ve fixed light, support, and watering and seen no change after several months, consider posting a photo to a plant community for a second opinion, because a full-plant photo tells experts more than a description does.